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Spline lube symptom?


Knobby10

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Knobby10

Any symptoms show up indicating the splines need lubed? I don't remember lubing drive shaft splines on cars and they are not shielded as they are on the RT. I just wonder if it's such a big deal on an RT, I get it on a GS but not on an RT that has seen little water or any off pavement riding. I will anxiously wait to get "enlightened" by forum members. 

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dirtrider
18 minutes ago, Knobby10 said:

Any symptoms show up indicating the splines need lubed? I don't remember lubing drive shaft splines on cars and they are not shielded as they are on the RT. I just wonder if it's such a big deal on an RT, I get it on a GS but not on an RT that has seen little water or any off pavement riding. I will anxiously wait to get "enlightened" by forum members. 

Afternoon Knobby10

 

No real symptoms, but some do seem to come from the factory with very little lube applied. 

 

It really isn't a big deal UNTIL you need to take it apart for some reason, if you have one with little factory lube, and/or one that has boots that allows moisture in, then you could end up with a rusty corroded mess that is extremely difficult to take apart & is a corroded mess once you do get it apart. 

 

At the very least (given your dry operating conditions)  I suggest that you pull the rear boot loose then see what that rear spline joint area looks like inside the rear boot.  

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So would you say that if the rear splines look great, there is no particular reason to pull the shaft and look at the front ones? (I'm new to my wethead, but have owned other BMWs since the mid-80s.)

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dirtrider
52 minutes ago, cookie said:

So would you say that if the rear splines look great, there is no particular reason to pull the shaft and look at the front ones? (I'm new to my wethead, but have owned other BMWs since the mid-80s.)

Afternoon  cookie

 

As a rule the front is usually better than the rear as it is higher & drier. 

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Alfred02

It seems really sporadic. There were 2018 GS/GSA bikes with such high rust, that they needed driveshaft/final drive replacement, while at least one GS/GSA which was a 2014 model showed the rear to be in mint condition.

As mine is the original 2014 with very low mileage, I will be checking it soon, once a ton of tools and parts arrive. They are coming from all over the world, so ETA for the work is completely unknown.

So yes, I agree, if you want to check it, then personally I would be reluctant to pull the boot back, unless you have that expensive assembly grease " Staburacs NBU 30PTM". (One of the items I am waiting for, coming from the USA). Because once you pull back that boot, you now have broken the seal that might have been perfect and now you introduce a problem that didn't actually exist.

The other alternative is to buy a USB Bluetooth Endoscope camera that you can use with any iPhone/Android phone and use the large cutout underneath in the final drive to have a peak. They don't give you the best vision, but should be good enough to see if there is any large issue.

 

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2 hours ago, Alfred02 said:

The other alternative is to buy a USB Bluetooth Endoscope camera that you can use with any iPhone/Android phone and use the large cutout underneath in the final drive to have a peak. They don't give you the best vision, but should be good enough to see if there is any large issue.

 

Sorry to tell, that “cut out” doesn’t give you access to the drive shaft and rear drive spline area. The only way to access it is through the rubber boot. 

I am not sure what special tools you think you need to be able to drop the rear drive (swing down)?

It is a simple process. After finding out that my rear u-joint and spline where rusted together at 6,000 miles on my 2018 RT,  I have been re-lubing it every 12,000 miles. 
And no I don’t do river crossings or use a pressure washer to clean the bike. 
Boxflyer has a video to explain and demonstrate on how to do it.

 

 

 

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severely

I looked at my 14 RT at 48K mikes and found the RD stuck to the driveshaft. I got it loose via WD40 and jumping on the rear brake hard a couple times, apparently first owner never got on the rear brake hard enough to make the splines go back and forth. After disassembly/ cleaning I lubed it up and plan to check/lube every other rear tire change. My dealer tells me they've had to replace the RD AND driveshaft on some that were stuck too badly. 

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Alfred02
5 hours ago, Bernie said:

Sorry to tell, that “cut out” doesn’t give you access to the drive shaft and rear drive spline area. The only way to access it is through the rubber boot. 

I am not sure what special tools you think you need to be able to drop the rear drive (swing down)?

It is a simple process. After finding out that my rear u-joint and spline where rusted together at 6,000 miles on my 2018 RT,  I have been re-lubing it every 12,000 miles. 
And no I don’t do river crossings or use a pressure washer to clean the bike. 
Boxflyer has a video to explain and demonstrate on how to do it.

 

 

 

Yes, I forgot that the boot seals all the way.

No, the special tools are to do a more extensive service. These tools include BMW crankshaft Lock, Camchain Tensioner and the Camshaft locking tool to insure that the camshaft sprockets are timed properly.

For material I have a set of Rocker cover gaskets, spark plugs, final drive oil etc.

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simskid

Question re spline lube...On my 09 RT I dropped the rear drive and the drive shaft came with it.  After about 8 hours of work and disassembly.  I was able to get the drive shaft back in place - couldn't just push it back in the drive shaft housing.   I now have a 16 RT.  I hesitate to drop the final since I had such a problem on the 09.  Should I have the same concern on the 16 if the drive shaft comes loose while dropping the final or can the drive shaft be push back into place?

 

Thoughts?

 

John

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2 hours ago, Alfred02 said:

Follow this thread: r1200gsw-lc-wethead-final-drive-change-and-spline-lube-pictorial

I know it talks about the GS/GSA's but our bikes are literally the same. We just have to add removing the muffler to get the rear wheel off.

Yes Jim been on this for many years.  If you look through the 85 pages you will see all kinds of various states of FD.  Including new 1250's.

 

This has been going on forever not just the last year or two.

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John,

I suggest you watch the very nicely done video by Box Flyer on the process of lubing the rear splines.  The video is more comprehensive than just that, Brad talks a lot about other items to look for while you are performing this process...especially the importance of ensuring that the rubber boot is property snapped in place.  To address your other concern, when Brad drops the rear housing,  the engine side of the shaft comes out because the rear end of the spline is somewhat stuck in the rear drive.  No problem, he just pushes on the drive shaft and it "snaps" back into place on the engine side.  No big deal.  Brad's bike is a 2016RT, so it's your same model year (as it is mine).  

 

Here are Brad's videos on YouTube:   https://www.youtube.com/user/Boxflyer11

Forester

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Forester,

 

Thanks a ton.  The answer I was looking for.  Couldn't just push the 09 driveshaft back into place.  I've traded em's with Brad- he lives close by as well.  All good.

 

Thanks again!  Love this site!

 

JOhn

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