Nail in tire, plug or not?

[BucksTherapy]

I picked up a roofing nail through the tread surface of my Pilot Road on the back. The nail is about two inches from the centerline of the tread and atleast an inch from the sidewall.

 

I have replaced it but it is almost new and I am wondering if it would be safe if I had a plug/patch vulcanized to the inside of the tire.

 

Anyone had any experience with this?

[Firefight911]

Patch it!

 

As you have already removed it from the rim and are running a new tire, you have plenty of opportuntiy to do a quality patch that will allow the tire to last its normal tread life.

 

Rough up the interior surface good and follow the directions of the kit you are using.

 

I know that Bob (RFW) has some quality experience in this arena. Perhaps he can chime in on this or do a search for this very subject as I know it is in the archives. Just remember to change the default dates from one week to, if memory seves, about 2 months ago.

 

Hope this helps!

 

Oh, and recycle the nail! Go nail it into your roof or something!

[smiller]

as I know it is in the archives.

Uhhh... ya

 

Bob, do a search on the terms '+tire +repair'... should provide a few weeks reading material.

[philbytx]

Ok...here's the other side of the argument !

 

Replace it!!!!

 

I never have repaired a tyre, always replaced them. HOWEVER, if you can sleep soundly by just repairing it ...go for it!

[Jerry Duke]

Use a Dynaplug kit, repair it and forget it.

If the hole were larger or more of a tear, then I'd replace it, but it sounds like a simple small hole. Exactly what Dynaplug was designed to repair.

[BucksTherapy]

Thanks a lot guys. One option I am considering is having a patch vulanized on as they do with auto tires. Grind, prepare surface chemically, use vulcanize patch and melt it into the tire. Some tire shops can do this. Does anyone have any experience wiht this kind of patch on a motorcycle tire?

[RFW]

Patch it!

 

As you have already removed it from the rim and are running a new tire, you have plenty of opportuntiy to do a quality patch that will allow the tire to last its normal tread life.

 

Rough up the interior surface good and follow the directions of the kit you are using.

 

I know that Bob (RFW) has some quality experience in this arena. Perhaps he can chime in on this or do a search for this very subject as I know it is in the archives. Just remember to change the default dates from one week to, if memory seves, about 2 months ago.

Well, here I go: First off, I agree completely... Do a proper patch and it will last longer than the tire itself.

 

As was mentioned, rough up the inside of the tire around the hole. If your tire has some slight internal ribbing (like my ME880 had) you must grind them flush with the internal surface so that for a radius of an inch or a little more, there is a smooth, roughened surface ("Smooth, roughened"?? well, you know what I mean!) over this entire area.

 

What works absolutely the best to do this if there are internal ribs to "level", is to use a Dremel with a grindstone. Otherwise, if there are no ribs, use 100 to 120 grit sandpaper. Be sure that the entire surface is abraded, not just that there are some sandpaper scratches! Sounds complicated, but this takes only a few minutes if there are no internal ribs, and maybe 15 to 20 minutes of work if you need to grind out any internal ribbing.

 

It may be convenient to cut a couple of wood blocks to hold the tire beads apart so you can get in there to work, more easily.

 

For a patch, I just used a normal car tire patch intended for radial tires. Typically these are a disk shape with its circular edge tapered out to zero thickness. Use a patch that is around 1-1/2" diameter or so.

 

I bought the patch kit at a "Canadian Tire" store, which is Canada's version of Pep Boys and so on. The patches and glue that came in the kit were made by the American company "Victor". http://www.victorautomotive.net/pages/items/vtarr.html

Their stuff is sold everywhere.

 

Now, apply a fairly liberal, smooth coat of the adhesive supplied with the kit, that extends past the edge of where the patch will go. Let it dry thoroughly, then apply a second coat. Allow to dry to the touch per the kit's instructions. (note: touch only at the edges beyond where the patch will go!)

 

Finally peel off the backing of the patch and apply to the glued area. Press firmly down over the entire area of the patch, then (and this is important!) hammer the patch over its entire area onto the tire to get intimate contact. Be sure to use a hammer with a smooth face (cover it with a couple of layers of electrical tape if in doubt).

 

The tire is now ready to go. This patch will NEVER come off... I tried it when the tire was finally worn out 10,000 or 12,000 miles after I applied a patch, and it still just wouldn't peel off.

 

Bob.

[RFW]

Thanks a lot guys. One option I am considering is having a patch vulanized on as they do with auto tires. Grind, prepare surface chemically, use vulcanize patch and melt it into the tire. Some tire shops can do this. Does anyone have any experience wiht this kind of patch on a motorcycle tire?

Don't bother. It is not worth the trouble, and there is no benefit. A normal patch applied as I have described in my previous diatribe will NEVER come off, so what benefit is there to making it even stronger?

 

Bob.