Jump to content
IGNORED

Fast Idle cable slipping/ hard cold start


Crazy Noodle

Recommended Posts

Crazy Noodle

When I pull up my fast idle lever it will slid down to the stop half way down. It does not stay up to the top like it use to. I have to hold it in the upermost position. Does this lever have a way to tighten this up?

 

When cold at the lower setting it wants to stall. When it is warmed up and I push the lever down it does slow the idle to 1,100 rpm.

 

Also after doing a throttle body sync it seems harder to start without giving it a bit of throttle. Is somthing wrong? Once warm life is good and it runs great? Is this related?

 

Thanks,

 

Todd

Link to comment
ShovelStrokeEd

It is not "slipping". There is only one detent on the cold start lever, the middle position, as you have noted. The second position is spring loaded and requires that you hold the lever to maintain.

 

Hard cold start? You mentioned a throttle body synch. Did you do all the stuff you should take care of before doing a synch? Adjust valves, check/replace spark plugs, verify such things as ignition coil and wiring?

Link to comment
John Dickens

Ed is spot on. The idea is that you hold the lever fully open to start the bike then release it to the detent. As the bike warms up you shut it off.

 

The choke lever is nothing but a fast idle control. It has no influence on cold starting as such. I believe the ECU delivers a richer mixture when the starter is pressed taking the place of a conventional choke.

Link to comment
Crazy Noodle

Hi,

 

Yes, I did the valves and put new plugs in before the sync. I have never done anything with the electronics. I have done the throttle body sync before and it worked great.

 

Are you supposed to hold the fast idle lever all the way up when starting a cold bike or is the detent where it should be? Now I am wondering.... tongue.gif

 

After this sync it seems harder to start (only when cold) as it cranks longer before it starts. Also a little throttle seems to get it running when cranking. confused.gif Again it is all good when it runs for 30 seconds. It is only when it is cold.

Link to comment

Are you supposed to hold the fast idle lever all the way up when starting a cold bike or is the detent where it should be? Now I am wondering....

You can hold it up all the way while starting , letting it go back to the detent when bike will idle. Detent will hold fast idle.

 

 

After this sync it seems harder to start (only when cold) as it cranks longer before it starts. Also a little throttle seems to get it running when cranking. Again it is all good when it runs for 30 seconds. It is only when it is cold.

 

My bike responds to a little throttle when cranking.

 

perhaps your battery is a little low. (not cranking as fast)

Link to comment
ShovelStrokeEd

Noodle,

Are you sure your cold start cable is properly adjusted?

 

If you are having to open the throttle even further perhaps the cable has stretched a bit and you are not getting all the benefit from it.

 

Try this, taking due care not to scorch your tupperware with the hot exhaust. With the engine fully warm, engage the fast idle lever. Idle engine speed should be in the 1500 to 1800 RPM range. Holding against the detent, you should have over 2200 RPM or thereabouts. There is an adjustment for this under the inboard portion of your left switch housing.

Link to comment

When I bought my R about a year ago the fast idle lever would stay in the upper most position so I thought this was normal. This being my first BMW and all.

Here is the thread and all the help there in.

cable thread

 

Peter

Link to comment
steveknapp

Are you sure your cold start cable is properly adjusted?

 

As well as the TB cables?

 

The cold start lever just cracks the TB's open a bit. Any slack in the three cables that control it lessens how much the TBs get opened.

 

The difference on my RT was pretty substantial when the temps were low.

Link to comment
Crazy Noodle

Hi,

 

Thanks for the input.

 

My battery is new.

 

It has never done this before.

 

I suspect the problem could be with a cable being loose somewhere.

 

I will start with Ed's suggestion and check the idle speeds when warm.

 

If the rpm's don't hit those numbers I will adjust the fast idle cable to start. If the rpm numbers do hit the numbers I will be back. I will let you know what happens and thanks for the help! thumbsup.gif

 

Todd

Link to comment

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

×
×
  • Create New...