New Paint Job

[Michael_T]

This may sound like an idiot question to those out there who feel that repainting an 1150rt is undesirable or even unethical. I apologize in advance to this group.

 

Nevertheless, my question is:"How tough is it to repaint your bike (even if you wish to go outside of the BMW color scheme)?

 

Thx

 

Michael

[Rob L]

Take it apart, sand, and coat it with your favorite color. no harder than any other vehicle. I repainted several parts last winter and then painted the side covers under the seat and the bags. I like it!!! even if I did stay with the stock color

 

[leikam]

All of the tupperware is easy to remove, so if that's the extent of your ambition, it's no problem at all. If you want to paint your rims, heads, valve covers, peg mounting plates or the frame, you've got a bit more work ahead of you.

[Mulepick]

It really depends on your experience, tools, and quality of job you want. Ever painted w/automotive paint before? Got a compressor, HVLP gun, filter?

 

I did a pretty good paint job on my old Goldwing with nothing but spray cans. It was a true candy apple job too.

 

I think a true candy apple would be tough on this body because of all the curves. You're sure to have places too dark and too light. House of Kolor and others have base/clear combos that look real similar to candy jobs though. Let's see, then there's any graphics, pearls, etc. you want.

 

I'm just now getting started thinking about mine.

 

Bob

[RFW]

A lot of detail work; tedious but not "hard".

 

Paint hides nothing! It's all in the preparation! Sanding od teh original paint must be done with minimum 320-grit, before priming, and sand the primer with 400-600 grit.

 

Do NOT use single-component Glazing Putty to fill nicks and scratches. Use only the type of Glazing Putty that you mix a hardener with.

 

Here's a tip: Becuse of the many edges and so on, sanding can be a pain. Use green scotchbrite to "sand" the edges and corners. You'll get a great job and won't sand through the edges.

 

Primer MUST be catalysed (such as PPG's "Prima K36"). Clearcoat must also be the catalysed type for chip resistance.

 

As I said, it's all in the preparation. Cut any corners there and you'll see it in spades when you finish painting.

 

By the way, my preference for color coat and clear coat is Glasurit, who also is BMW's OEM paint supplier.

 

Bob.

[Rob L]

A lot of detail work; tedious but not "hard".

 

Paint hides nothing! It's all in the preparation! Sanding od teh original paint must be done with minimum 320-grit, before priming, and sand the primer with 400-600 grit.

 

Do NOT use single-component Glazing Putty to fill nicks and scratches. Use only the type of Glazing Putty that you mix a hardener with.

 

Here's a tip: Becuse of the many edges and so on, sanding can be a pain. Use green scotchbrite to "sand" the edges and corners. You'll get a great job and won't sand through the edges.

 

Primer MUST be catalysed (such as PPG's "Prima K36"). Clearcoat must also be the catalysed type for chip resistance.

 

As I said, it's all in the preparation. Cut any corners there and you'll see it in spades when you finish painting.

 

By the way, my preference for color coat and clear coat is Glasurit, who also is BMW's OEM paint supplier.

 

Bob.

 

Glasurit would have been my choice if there was a dealer around. I used Dupont from the local auto parts store. They supply many body shops in the area. The advantage is that I could get help, advice, and product without long lead times. Dupont makes a pretty good system, catalyzed primer, base coat/clear coat, and fillers that are all compatible. Whatever you use, try to stay with one manufacturer to ensure compatibility of the components.

[Woodie]

... repainting an 1150rt is undesirable or even unethical.

 

You mean <gasp>, you can get a color other than black??

[bigboy]

wow mint job it,s a credit to you .