2003 R1150RT Shuts off when turning handlebars left

[monstersdad99]

As the title says my motorcycle started totally shutting off when I turn the handlebars to the left.  It starts and runs fine but if I am maneuvering at slow speed and I turn the bars even a little bit to the left it shuts off.  It doesn't even get power if I have the wheel locked to the left and I turn the key to the on position, I have to first straighten the wheel to get power.

I have tried to find any loose connections without taking anything of the Tupperware off or see if there is an exposed wire and it is shorting out but I haven't found anything yet.

Has anyone else ever heard of this? Or something like it?

[dirtrider]

41 minutes ago, monstersdad99 said:

As the title says my motorcycle started totally shutting off when I turn the handlebars to the left.  It starts and runs fine but if I am maneuvering at slow speed and I turn the bars even a little bit to the left it shuts off.  It doesn't even get power if I have the wheel locked to the left and I turn the key to the on position, I have to first straighten the wheel to get power.

I have tried to find any loose connections without taking anything of the Tupperware off or see if there is an exposed wire and it is shorting out but I haven't found anything yet.

Has anyone else ever heard of this? Or something like it?

Morning monstersdad99

 

Look on the handlebar right hand side near the steering neck, usually near or at  one of the zip ties holding the wire harness. 

 

More than likely you will find a broken green wire or broken red wire that opens up as you turn the handlebars.

 

You might try starting the engine then with it idling in neutral  try lightly wiggling/moving the wire harness until the engine falters (that might pinpoint the exact area)  

 

When you find the problem area don't just splice the wires back together at the break as they will just break again. Cut the wires back a few inches on both sides then add a new section of wire.  Also leave the zip ties slightly loose. 

 

 

[monstersdad99]

23 minutes ago, dirtrider said:

Morning monstersdad99

 

Look on the handlebar right hand side near the steering neck, usually near or at  one of the zip ties holding the wire harness. 

 

More than likely you will find a broken green wire or broken red wire that opens up as you turn the handlebars.

 

When you find the problem area don't just splice the wires back together at the break as they will just break again. Cut the wires back a few inches on both sides then add a new section of wire.  Also leave the zip ties slightly loose. 

 

 

Great thanks, I will check this as soon as I get home.

[monstersdad99]

Thank you for the help. The green wire was cut all the way through. It is fixed and running great. 

[jmerlinw]

I'm late to this conversation, but had the same problem on my 1999 R1100 RS (purchased new) - about 7 years-on. DirtRider has nailed it. In my case the broken wire was so close to the ignition switch I had to use a combination of tinning the wire ends and using a mechanical coupling, then double-layer heat shrink tubing and RTV around the whole bundle of wires. I have a few pictures of the repair here: http://www.johnmerlinwilliams.com/dailyride/BMWrepair.htm#  The factory zip-tie right under the ignition switch seemed to have cut into the wire bundle. After the repair I did not replace the zip tie - thinking the double shrink-tubing and silicone would stabilize the wire bundle. So far (14 years later, but only about 10,000 miles on) it's holding up.

 

Somewhere I read that BMW had issues with a wiring harness supplier using poor grade copper wire, but I suppose it could also be that any copper will get brittle from the movement of the wires in the ignition switch mounted in the triple tree relative to the fairing subframe. 

 

 

[monstersdad99]

On 6/25/2021 at 12:32 PM, jmerlinw said:

I'm late to this conversation, but had the same problem on my 1999 R1100 RS (purchased new) - about 7 years-on. DirtRider has nailed it. In my case the broken wire was so close to the ignition switch I had to use a combination of tinning the wire ends and using a mechanical coupling, then double-layer heat shrink tubing and RTV around the whole bundle of wires. I have a few pictures of the repair here: http://www.johnmerlinwilliams.com/dailyride/BMWrepair.htm#  The factory zip-tie right under the ignition switch seemed to have cut into the wire bundle. After the repair I did not replace the zip tie - thinking the double shrink-tubing and silicone would stabilize the wire bundle. So far (14 years later, but only about 10,000 miles on) it's holding up.

 

Somewhere I read that BMW had issues with a wiring harness supplier using poor grade copper wire, but I suppose it could also be that any copper will get brittle from the movement of the wires in the ignition switch mounted in the triple tree relative to the fairing subframe. 

 

 

Wow that is close to the ignition.  Mine was down a little ways.  The PO added a more powerful horn to the bike and he tightened  the zip tie too tight and the green wire was completely cut through. 

[dirtrider]

2 hours ago, monstersdad99 said:

Wow that is close to the ignition.  Mine was down a little ways.  The PO added a more powerful horn to the bike and he tightened  the zip tie too tight and the green wire was completely cut through. 

Afternoon  monstersdad99

 

Those zip ties come way too tight right from the factory. 

 

The zip tie doesn't actually cut the wire or harness it just restrains it so tight that the harness isn't free to move as the handlebars are turned so the harness flexes or bends in the very same spot with every handlebar movement so it eventually work hardens the internal wire strands then they fracture. 

 

A good long term repair is to cut the wire back in both directions then add a new wire section in the flexing area then leave the zip tie or ties somewhat loose (just enough to guide the harness but not restrain it) 

 

You might want to eventually check your red wire also as those are usually not too far behind the green one. Or at least carry a pre-made wire section & crimping tool so you can make a future repair if fails while you are a long way from supplies.  

[RPG]

On 6/11/2021 at 11:25 AM, monstersdad99 said:

Great thanks, I will check this as soon as I get home.

D.R. helped me diagnose the same issue with my '04 RT. His recommended repair has been reliable for over 10 years now. The key is to leave the harness slightly loose, as advised.

[Woodchips]

Good afternoon

Its been a while since I have been on the forum and one of the first issues I see is the same wiring problem I addressed just last week on my 96 RT1100.

In my case it was the red wire that broke as if it had been cut with side cutters. I was able to diagnose it be killing the ignition by turning the bars to the left.

After getting enough room by removing a section of the sheathing, I cut back some insulation and soldering the wires back together. all was fine for another 900 Kilometre trip until I took a short ride last night.

The battery light came on and I lost all signal and brake lights and instrument lights and the top ABS light came on. I drove it home as it was running fine and I still had the headlight. A check in the fuse box showed a blown #1 fuse (15amp). I replaced it and all was ok again until I applied the front brake lever sitting in the garage and the fuse blew again. The 3 other wires in that bundle seem fine.

The #1 fuse controls a lot of circuits, and Im wondering if anyone has had a similar issue and can suggest a solution.

 

woodchips In Calgary

Edited August 1, 2021 by Woodchips
left out a sentence.

[dirtrider]

10 hours ago, Woodchips said:

Good afternoon

Its been a while since I have been on the forum and one of the first issues I see is the same wiring problem I addressed just last week on my 96 RT1100.

In my case it was the red wire that broke as if it had been cut with side cutters. I was able to diagnose it be killing the ignition by turning the bars to the left.

After getting enough room by removing a section of the sheathing, I cut back some insulation and soldering the wires back together. all was fine for another 900 Kilometre trip until I took a short ride last night.

The battery light came on and I lost all signal and brake lights and instrument lights and the top ABS light came on. I drove it home as it was running fine and I still had the headlight. A check in the fuse box showed a blown #1 fuse (15amp). I replaced it and all was ok again until I applied the front brake lever sitting in the garage and the fuse blew again. The 3 other wires in that bundle seem fine.

The #1 fuse controls a lot of circuits, and Im wondering if anyone has had a similar issue and can suggest a solution.

 

woodchips In Calgary

Morning Woodchips

 

Well, if it blows the #1 fuse when you use the front brake lever that can be used as a diagnostic aide.

 

Does it also blow the #1 fuse when using the rear brake????????

 

If it blows the #1 fuse ONLY when using the front brake then look for a short to ground in the front brake wire circuit after the front brake switch.  

 

If it blows the #1 fuse when using either the front or rear brake lever/pedal then look for a short to ground  at the rear brake light area.

 

Just keep in mind that the front & rear brake light circuits are tied together so a problem at either end can effect the other end so don't fixate on one area. 

 

Start by removing the rear brake/tail light bulb then see if using the brake lever or pedal STILL blows the #1 fuse. If the fuse  doesn't blow then replace the rear bulb.

 

If the fuse still blows with bulb removed then look for a problem in the bulb  socket or in the wiring going to the the rear bulb socket.   

 

The #1 one fuse does effect a number of circuits BUT if it ONLY blows the fuse when using the brake pedal or lever then your problem is in the brake light circuit.  

[Woodchips]

Good Evening D.R.

 

Once again I’m rescued by the simplest solutions ( K.I.S.S.) suggested by D.R. 

Both brake levers blew the fuses when applied so i didn’t get a chance to see if the brake light bulb was working. I then took the LED “conversion" bulb out and ran a continuity test on it and found it had an open circuit. I replaced the bulb with a new 1156 Incandescent bulb and installed a 4 amp fuse as it was all i could find in my collection. Everything was back to normal. The alternator is putting out 14.6 as the Odyssey battery was showing 12.9 at rest at first but after running for a short time was at 13.4. I will get some correct fuses and go for a ride close to home tonight just to be sure all is well.

I'm guessing that the BMW did not get along with resistor LED bulb although it did work fine on last weeks trip of just over 1100 Kilometre. Comments on the LED bulbs would be welcome.

Once again, hats off to D.R.

Ron  in Calgary

 

 

[dirtrider]

9 hours ago, Woodchips said:

Good Evening D.R.

 

Once again I’m rescued by the simplest solutions ( K.I.S.S.) suggested by D.R. 

Both brake levers blew the fuses when applied so i didn’t get a chance to see if the brake light bulb was working. I then took the LED “conversion" bulb out and ran a continuity test on it and found it had an open circuit. I replaced the bulb with a new 1156 Incandescent bulb and installed a 4 amp fuse as it was all i could find in my collection. Everything was back to normal. The alternator is putting out 14.6 as the Odyssey battery was showing 12.9 at rest at first but after running for a short time was at 13.4. I will get some correct fuses and go for a ride close to home tonight just to be sure all is well.

I'm guessing that the BMW did not get along with resistor LED bulb although it did work fine on last weeks trip of just over 1100 Kilometre. Comments on the LED bulbs would be welcome.

Once again, hats off to D.R.

Ron  in Calgary

 

 

Morning  Woodchips

 

It could easily be the rear bulb but NOT due to an open circuit. An open circuit it is (open) therefore no load to blow the fuse.  

[Woodchips]

Hi D.R.

I agree on the open circuit, but wonder if that applies to LED bulbs? Could there be a short in the resistor part of the LED. 

After changing back to a 1156 incandescent bulb, everything is operating normally.

Ron

[dirtrider]

1 hour ago, Woodchips said:

Hi D.R.

I agree on the open circuit, but wonder if that applies to LED bulbs? Could there be a short in the resistor part of the LED. 

After changing back to a 1156 incandescent bulb, everything is operating normally.

Ron

Afternoon Woodchips

 

Yes, that applies to about any bulb or circuit. An open circuit is not capable of placing a load on the circuit (think of an unplugged toaster). 

 

As far a shorted resistor, sure it is possible for a resistor to short, coils can short together to produce a lower resistance, or the coil coverings can wear or break allowing those coils to short to ground.  Typically a resistor fails open (that won't cause a fuse to blow)  or the leads going into the resistor short to a nearby ground. 

 

As for a shorted resistor causing your problem, that depends on how the resistor was wired in. If it was used as a current/voltage reducing resistor (wired in series) then probably wouldn't cause the fuse to blow but could burn up the lower voltage LED array.

 

If used as as load increasing resistor (wired in parallel ) then a shorted resistor sure could cause your fuse to blow.       

[Woodchips]

Hi DR

I'm going to guess that it was a load increasing resistor type as they are very cheap and I have now ridden almost 250 kilometres with no further issues. I’m going to test the dead LED bulb on a bench battery with a

15 amp fuse between the positive post and the positive point on the bulb and see what happens, hopefully it will blow the fuse. 
Once again, thanks for the rescue. 
Ron in Calgary