idle is rough/dies (when warm-up) 2002 r1150r BMW

[Newbiebmw2021]

Hello Everyone,

I am new to BMW motorcycles. My friend had a 2002 bmw r1150r. I bought it from him and it has this problem where it won't idle when it is hot. I have played with the air screws and the throttle cables. I am waiting on my sync tool to adjust them perfect but where I start it it runs great till its gets hot then it runs richer and wants to die at idle. runs fine at higher then idle rpms. Is this a tps issue?

 I am new to BMWs so any help would be amazing.

Thank you in advance. Could it be the 02 sensor?

[scout6]

Even after doing all of the proper adjustments, my 2002 1150rt ran rough in slow driving (hunting).  This thing really helped me fine tune the ride.   https://www.tficontrollers.com/BMW/default.asp.  They used to have a military discount as well.

[Alfred02]

The airbleed/idle holes in both carbies carbon up and partially or fully block. Both carbies would need full cleaning using a carbie spray.

Afterwards a very good synch/vacuum system/tool is required to calibrate/synch the carbies to each other.

This will not last for that long and would require redoing every 3 ~ 6 months (the synching side of the job).

Unfortunate the dealers do a mediocre job at best.

Do Not attempts this without a decent manual and doing a thorough research. It is not difficult but without getting a good understanding of how to do this, for this specific boxer model, it will end in tears.

You will also need a couple of electric fans to point towards the cylinders to keep the temperature in the normal range while tuning.

 

[Newbiebmw2021]

it runs good till its warm tho.. weird

[dirtrider]

37 minutes ago, Newbiebmw2021 said:

it runs good till its warm tho.. weird

Afternoon  Newbiebmw2021

 

Not weird, it is just telling you something, you need to figure out what it is telling you. 

 

Start by making sure the o2 sensor pig tail is not hanging down on the hot exhaust. If this is OK then get a GS-911 on it to look at the o2 sensor output signal (or just ride it with the o2 sensor disconnected to see if the problem goes away).  

 

It is sort of pointing to an o2 sensor problem but there are other things that can cause the problem, like dipping fuel injectors, R/H spark plug wire running close to the o2 sensor pig tail, possible TPS issue (not as you think though)   

 

You might also try doing a new TPS relearn (especially if the battery was dead or disconnected).

 

To re-teach the TPS, remove fuse #5 for about 10 minutes, then re-install fuse #5, then with choke OFF turn the key to on (do not start engine), then cycle the throttle twist grip from fully closed to fully  open 3 times, then turn key to off (that's it, it just learned full open & full closed throttle positions) 

 

 

[Newbiebmw2021]

omg thank you for the info dirt rider. you rock I will do this and get back to you.

[waynerd]

DR's got you covered with diagnosing your issue.  I'll just offer my revelation with a long running nuisance I had - very similar to yours - which, I THINK, I just recently solved (after multiple attempts).

 

Rough idle when warm, at a certain point on the way to full temp.  Idled fine cold, idled fine hot.  Pretty consistently, on my way home from work after about 5 minutes riding, when I was stopped at a particular light, the idle would stumble and drop.  Sometimes it would die - most times I would catch it and crack the throttle to keep it running.  So in retrospect, that speaks to a transition condition, and should have pointed me to the problem sooner, but in the absence of a lot of diagnostic resources, I...   re-routed the O2 lead, swapped in new stick coils, had the injectors cleaned, meticulously adjusted the valves and balanced the TB's, and installed an AF-XIED.  Last year, while I was changing the clutch slave, I decided to put in a new O2 sensor, and that was the bingo moment for me.

 

Again, only one person's anectdotal story, and there are much smarter ways to solving your problem than just swapping parts.  Stick with DR and he'll get you a proper solution.  Good luck.

 

 

[Newbiebmw2021]

On 6/7/2021 at 12:22 PM, waynerd said:

DR's got you covered with diagnosing your issue.  I'll just offer my revelation with a long running nuisance I had - very similar to yours - which, I THINK, I just recently solved (after multiple attempts).

 

Rough idle when warm, at a certain point on the way to full temp.  Idled fine cold, idled fine hot.  Pretty consistently, on my way home from work after about 5 minutes riding, when I was stopped at a particular light, the idle would stumble and drop.  Sometimes it would die - most times I would catch it and crack the throttle to keep it running.  So in retrospect, that speaks to a transition condition, and should have pointed me to the problem sooner, but in the absence of a lot of diagnostic resources, I...   re-routed the O2 lead, swapped in new stick coils, had the injectors cleaned, meticulously adjusted the valves and balanced the TB's, and installed an AF-XIED.  Last year, while I was changing the clutch slave, I decided to put in a new O2 sensor, and that was the bingo moment for me.

 

Again, only one person's anectdotal story, and there are much smarter ways to solving your problem than just swapping parts.  Stick with DR and he'll get you a proper solution.  Good luck.

 

 

I unplugged my 02 sensor and now it doesn't die. Do I need to buy a new one or just leave this unplugged

[Newbiebmw2021]

On 6/7/2021 at 12:22 PM, waynerd said:

DR's got you covered with diagnosing your issue.  I'll just offer my revelation with a long running nuisance I had - very similar to yours - which, I THINK, I just recently solved (after multiple attempts).

 

Rough idle when warm, at a certain point on the way to full temp.  Idled fine cold, idled fine hot.  Pretty consistently, on my way home from work after about 5 minutes riding, when I was stopped at a particular light, the idle would stumble and drop.  Sometimes it would die - most times I would catch it and crack the throttle to keep it running.  So in retrospect, that speaks to a transition condition, and should have pointed me to the problem sooner, but in the absence of a lot of diagnostic resources, I...   re-routed the O2 lead, swapped in new stick coils, had the injectors cleaned, meticulously adjusted the valves and balanced the TB's, and installed an AF-XIED.  Last year, while I was changing the clutch slave, I decided to put in a new O2 sensor, and that was the bingo moment for me.

 

Again, only one person's anectdotal story, and there are much smarter ways to solving your problem than just swapping parts.  Stick with DR and he'll get you a proper solution.  Good luck.

 

 

did the AF-XIED help with the fuel adjustments

[dirtrider]

11 hours ago, Newbiebmw2021 said:

I unplugged my 02 sensor and now it doesn't die. Do I need to buy a new one or just leave this unplugged

Morning   Newbiebmw2021

 

On the BMW 1150 motorcycle there is no good open loop mapping so it  should have a functioning o2 sensor installed. 

 

You can run it short term with the o2 sensor unplugged but you really should install a new (or good used o2 sensor. 

 

You can buy a plug & play  o2 sensor specifically  for your BMW 1150 (expensive) or buy, then splice in, a universal o2 sensor using the wire pig tail that you cut off your present o2 sensor. 

 

Caution: if installing a universal o2 sensor do not solder the wire connections,  for the o2 sensor to function properly it needs to get reference air in through the wire strands.    

[waynerd]

On 6/11/2021 at 5:28 PM, Newbiebmw2021 said:

I unplugged my 02 sensor and now it doesn't die. Do I need to buy a new one or just leave this unplugged

DR addressed this, but I'll add that Euro MotoElectrics or Beemer Boneyard are good sources for a "reasonable" (i.e. alternative to dealer prices) O2 sensor.

 

On 6/11/2021 at 5:31 PM, Newbiebmw2021 said:

did the AF-XIED help with the fuel adjustments

Doesn't really make tune-ups any easier (if that's what you're asking).  It gives you the opportunity to spoof your O2 sensor signal and dial in an optimal air-fuel ratio for your bike.  Just provides for a better running bike overall.  Now if you're asking about the much talked about engine surging, I believe I've read that folks with single spark 1150's, like yours ('01-''03), get relief from that anomaly with an AF-XIED.

 

 

[Newbiebmw2021]

ok so I attempted to balance the trottlebodies with my sync tool and my right thottlebody is sucking way more air then the left. I also couldn't get the idle down. May be its acting different because I need the o2 sensor plugged in. also my left exh. was red hot at 800 degrees and the right was around 650 700. I couldn't get it to get cooler. it was idling for a bit. excuse my newbie stuff here.

so correct6 me if I am wrong

order o2

install that then sync throttle bodies. 

set tps also dont know how to do that yet. 

then hopefully I can ride this baby. 

 

its a 02 with only 11k on it

[Newbiebmw2021]

here she is. 

[dirtrider]

5 hours ago, Newbiebmw2021 said:

ok so I attempted to balance the trottlebodies with my sync tool and my right thottlebodie is suck. Many ing way more air then the left. I also couldn't get the idle down. May be its funning different because I need the o2 sensor plugged in. also my left exh. was red hot at 800 degrees and the right was around 650 700. I couldn't get it to get cooler. it was idling for a bit. excuse my newbie stuff here.

so correct6 me if I am wrong

order o2

install that then sync throttle bodies. 

set tps also dont know how to do that yet. 

then hopefully I can ride this baby. 

 

its a 02 with only 11k on it

Morning  Newbiebmw2021

 

What is stuck on your right throttle body? We can't help if we don't know what is stuck.

 

You really should have a functioning o2 sensor plugged in before trying to set the idle speed. It won't change the TB balance but can change the hot curb idle speed. 

 

At only 11,000 miles it shouldn't need any sort of TPS adjustment but you should do a new TPS relearn.  

 

______To do a TPS re-learn_____

 

(with choke OFF)

*Remove fuse #5 for about 5 minutes, then re-install fuse #5.

Then

*Switch on the ignition switch.

Then

*Without starting the engine, fully open the throttle twice so that 
the Fueling Computer can register the throttle-valve positions.

then

*Switch off the ignition.

That's it, that re-teaches the TPS where closed & open throttle is.
 

[Newbiebmw2021]

My right cylinder was sucking more air then my left. I couldn’t get it lower. Like a ton more.  It was sucking the fluid from the balancer 
Sorry my typos*

also I read that I need to adjust the tps to .37v

ehat color wirh is this that I pull a reading on?

[dirtrider]

14 minutes ago, Newbiebmw2021 said:

My left cylinder was sucking more air then my right. I couldn’t get it lower.
Sorry my typos*

Afternoon  Newbiebmw2021

 

We need a little more info on your problem. What makes you think that your L/H side is sucking more air???????? Be very specific on why you think the L/H side is sucking more air.

[Newbiebmw2021]

The right side with the sync tool was pulling the fluid feom the sync tool into the engine. But my bike isn’t idling High. The left side didn’t do that.  I believe when I messed with the tps it jacked everything up. How do I get that back to .37v reading. What wire do I need to pull that reading off of. 

[Newbiebmw2021]

Btw thank you sooo much for any help. 🙏🙏🙏🙏🙏

[dirtrider]

24 minutes ago, Newbiebmw2021 said:

The right side with the sync tool was pulling the fluid feom the sync tool into the engine. But my bike isn’t idling High. The left side didn’t do that.  I believe when I messed with the tps it jacked everything up. How do I get that back to .37v reading. What wire do I need to pull that reading off of. 

Afternoon  Newbiebmw2021

 

Did you mess with the throttle body base idle screws? This will determine where to start.  

 

Also make sure that you don't have tight throttle cables at either throttle body (you need a little slack on both sides).  

[Newbiebmw2021]

no. just the throttle cable adjustments and the air screws. when the co2 is plugged in the idle drops down to 1100 but when unplugged it stays at 1400. I think I should first get a good o2 sensor. where was it I could buy a universal one or used one?

 

[BeanerBeamer69]

Did you ever get this issue solved? If so, what was your solution? I’m having a very similar issue and I’m aware the TB’s need cleaned and synced up but I wasn’t sure what else it was gonna need to do. o2 sensor is definitely something I didn’t initially think of so I’ll have to check that, and I’m thinking a TPS relearn once everything else has been fixed would be a good choice. I’ve also noticed it feels significantly hotter much quicker on the left cylinder compared to the right. I can leave my hand placed on the right side 2-3x longer than I can on the left side of the motor right after a cold start. The bike is a 2002 BMW r1150r with approximately 50k miles.