Growling 1150RT gearbox/U-J?

[salerno43]

I have a 02 1150RT with 62k Miles on it. Just lately it has begun to make some noise from the transmission at some point. Originally it was mostly notable in the lower gears when using engine breaking but now I can hear it on the motorway. Other symptoms are slight vibration and that it feels like your driving with the brakes dragging and performance is down but the engine itself seems fine.

 

Just last week as I pulled the clutch in the bike to change gear and it began to slow as if the brakes were actually on, I limped home as it was only 300 yards to home and the bike felt locked up but afetr rocking back and forward it free'd up. calipers were not at all warm so the brakes seem fine.

 

Worried that a UJ may be the problem I took it to a garage, it was test driven and they said gearbox was worn and needed replacing - but had no idea what the brakes on thing was all about. Clutch is now rattling from time to time until you pull it in. He's only suggestion meant ripping the gearbox apart to find out - or drive it till it dies. I'm worried incase it is a U-J and it locks up the backwheel.

 

Any ideas on what I should do/try.

 

Thanks in Advance

 

Spencer

[Blue Beemer Dude]

Hmmmm... is there actually a u-joint where the shaft meets up with the diff? I suppose... but then again, I doubt that a bad u/j would put so much drag on the bike. It would just fail and fall apart. Or it's really tearing up something.

 

Here's an idea - not a safe one, but the only thing that I can come up with this early in the day (damned decaf!). Remove the rear wheel. Run motorcycle in gear, listen for noise (use a stethescope) to see if it's in the transmission or rear end. I don't know what kind of resources you have in the U.K. but across the pond there are several places to buy used parts from salvaged bikes, and I'd certainly look into a used transmission before rebuilding.

 

Also, maybe drain the fluids and look at them for signs of wear (metal shavings and the like)?

 

HTH, good luck!

 

Michael

[Ken H.]

What does the rear wheel feel like if you rotate it with the bike in neutral? (Up on the center stand of course.) Significantly smoother, easier? If so that would eliminate UJ issues. If have someone hold the clutch in, then rotate the rear wheel in the different gears are any of them different than the others?

 

Are you sure the sound is coming from the transmission, or maybe from the final drive? Any play or roughness felt in the FD crown bearing?

[salerno43]

I drained and checked the gearbox oil, it was grimey, but no obvious signs of metal and it seemed OK, stank though.

 

I refilled it and added some moly too, on its 45 miles to work, it seems the same?

 

I like the wheel off idea, I'll give it a go.

 

£2000/$3000 for a new gearbox ouch.

[Boffin]

I drained and checked the gearbox oil, it was grimey, but no obvious signs of metal and it seemed OK, stank though.

 

I refilled it and added some moly too, on its 45 miles to work, it seems the same?

 

I like the wheel off idea, I'll give it a go.

 

£2000/$3000 for a new gearbox ouch.

 

James Sherlock will sell you a reconditioned box for £405 - still fairly ouch but much better. The other issue is whether it is the box or not. Oilhead boxes, with the exception of the cluth/input shaft splies, are not usually problematic. The rear bevel drive bearings are. This is howver, normally associated with oil leaks and rear-wheel play. First check for rear wheel play, both top-to-bottom and front-to-rear. If you feel play in both planes than the bearing is suspect.

 

HTH, Andy

[salerno43]

I drained and checked the gearbox oil, it was grimey, but no obvious signs of metal and it seemed OK, stank though.

 

I refilled it and added some moly too, on its 45 miles to work, it seems the same?

 

I like the wheel off idea, I'll give it a go.

 

£2000/$3000 for a new gearbox ouch.

 

James Sherlock will sell you a reconditioned box for £405 - still fairly ouch but much better. The other issue is whether it is the box or not. Oilhead boxes, with the exception of the cluth/input shaft splies, are not usually problematic. The rear bevel drive bearings are. This is howver, normally associated with oil leaks and rear-wheel play. First check for rear wheel play, both top-to-bottom and front-to-rear. If you feel play in both planes than the bearing is suspect.

 

HTH, Andy

 

 

I'll try the wiggle and report my findings

[salerno43]

Rocked the bikes rear wheel across all axis, but it is tight, with no movement at all.

 

The sound is definitely a sort of whine more than a bearing rumble, interestingly it seems to come and go. I tend to notice it more when its happening as it is associated with vibration that I can feel through the bars and pegs?

[Delboy]

Where abouts in the UK are you,i can recomend a good technician not far from me(BMW specialist).As Andy said Sherlocks or maybe Motorworks

 

http://www.motorworks.co.uk/rd/home.php

 

Regards Del

[Boffin]

Rocked the bikes rear wheel across all axis, but it is tight, with no movement at all.

 

The sound is definitely a sort of whine more than a bearing rumble, interestingly it seems to come and go. I tend to notice it more when its happening as it is associated with vibration that I can feel through the bars and pegs?

 

Do you have Avon Azaro tyres fitted? I had a similar sounding problem which had the dealer strip & rebuild the box (under warranty) that turned out to be the tyres

 

Andy

[salerno43]

If it is the tyre I'll be more than happy thats for sure.

I live in Kent if thats any help, now a county without a BMW bike dealer seeing as Prestige have gone.

 

I will take the wheel off tonight, and try running the drive train without it.

[salerno43]

Run the bike on the stand with the wheel removed and the noise is definitely coming from the area between the gearbox and swing arm.

 

I changed the oil in the final drive and the magnetic drain plug had what looks like valve grinding paste all over it, and tiny shreds of metal, not tons of it but enough to be noticed.

 

Bike is noticably smoother since the oil change, but the noise remains.

 

any ideas - or is it new gearbox time?

[Ken H.]

"Valve grinding paste like material" (good descriptive, I'll have to remember that) is normal. "Tiny sheds of metal" if you can feel them when rubbed between your fingers, is not.

 

I'd pull the final drive at this point. It will give you a chance to rule out the U-joints, and isolate the FD for further investigation.