Can someone link me to the BEST video step by step clutch replacement for ( 1994 R1100RS )

[Bill Cats]

Can someone link me to the BEST video step by step clutch replacement for ( 1994 R1100RS ) 

Also is there any good resources that " may " take the job on in the fall ( shes good now except for when I jump her with 2 people on her ) 

 

Thank You,,,

[Stir]

I often look for videos to accomplish a task.  i rarely find what I am looking for.  But I some times find something similar enough to get the job done. When I muddle through, I try to post back to the forum, i.e. Ford Truck Owners and put up pictures of what I did.

[Jim Moore]

Here are my steps to removing the transmission. I don't remember why i do them in this order, but every time I do them in a different order I have to stop, back up and start again.

 

Oilhead R1100RS Transmission Removal

1.     Strap Front Wheel

2.     Loosen intake tubes and slide into airbox (Done at this time to make it easier to pull fuel lines out)

3.     Remove tank

a.     Disconnect fuel lines

b.     Disconnect vent lines

c.      Unbolt front of tank

d.     Disconnect fuel electronic connector

4.     Remove rear side fairings

5.     Remove battery

6.     Remove battery box bolts

7.     Remove starter.

8.     Disconnect electronics (neutral and gear indicator switches on left, ABS and rear brake light switches on right)

9.     Loosen

a.     Pins (both sides)

b.     Subframe Bolts (8)

c.      Exhaust bolts

d.     Shock bolts

e.     Torque arm bolts

10.Remove rear caliper

11. Remove rear wheel

12. Remove left footrest

13. Remove right footrest (leave it hanging by caliper and ABS assembly)

14.Remove exhaust

15. Remove final drive (Unbolt pins and front of torque arm)

16.Remove swingarm

17. Reinstall right footrest (one bolt)

18. Drain transmission oil

19. Remove right-front seat post

20. Remove rear shock

21. Remove airbox bolts (two in front, one in air filter housing)

22. Strap rear subframe

23. Remove subframe bolts (4)

24. Loosen subframe through-bolt

25. Ensure ABS lines are disconnected from rear subframe

26. Lift subframe

27. Unbolt injectors at throttle bodies

28.Remove airbox

29. Remove right footrest and leave it hanging

30. Unbolt bottom-right and top-left transmission bolts.

31. Install pins

32. Unbolt other transmission bolts

33. Slide transmission back. Use crowbar to hold battery box up so posts clear.

34. Locate clutch pushrod

Installation

35. Insert pushrod

36. Install transmission (22 nm)

37. Reattach ABS lines to transmission

38. Adjust clutch if necessary

39. Install battery box nuts

40. Seat airbox

41. Attach engine breather. It goes BELOW the throttle cable.

42.Install driveshaft.

43.  Lower subframe (watch electrical connectors) and install bolts (47 nm: Right-rear, right-front, left-front, left-rear)

44. Tighten through-bolt. 47 nm.

45. Install airbox bolts

46.Attach injectors

47.Install air filter and airbox lid.

48.Install shock (43 nm top and bottom) Do not tighten.

49. Install swingarm. (Pins are 100 ft-lb) on right side, 12 nm on left side, lock nut is damn tight)

50. Tighten shock (43 nm)

51. Install final drive (Pins are 100 ft-lb) on right side, 12 nm on left side, lock nut is damn tight)

52. Install torque arm (43 nm)

53.Install Starter

54. Install foot rests (22 nm)

55. Install Exhaust (20 ft-lb in back. 50 nm at the joint)

56. Reconnect electronics

57.Install rear wheel (77 ft-lb)

58. Install rear caliper (40 nm)

59.  Install battery

60. Install fuel tank

61. Install panels

[Bill Cats]

nice :)))  

im a see - er   lol --- but that is super helpfull also

 

[Miguel!]

You might check YouTube. https://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=bmw+1100+clutch. They might help. Miguel

[fatbob]

Check out Kirk Johnson’s videos from Illinois BMW club.  

[Lowndes]

Then there are the Chris Harris vids on YouTube, such as https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6gzR4WHD-94&t=6823s

 

He has several vids on oilhead clutch replacement.  One I used showed how to save time and effort by removing the complete rear frame and drive train by pivoting it either up or to the side with some cables and wiring still connected (support required).  https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-PdVvxMwz_A

 

If you have not watched his vids, he is very direct, no fluff, straight to the work with a  "liberal use of explatives", but is very thorough and even points out some incorrect torque values shown in the manuals for the pivot bearings. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=L0_j8SuiFQI

 

If you want to check or lube your drive shaft splines or check the pivot bearings while you have the bike apart, this is a good opportunity.

 

If you are replacing the friction disc, I used a Siebenrock "Basic" disc ($104 at Beemer Boneyard) and it works beautifully (since Jan, '17).  https://www.beemerboneyard.com/baplclpl.html

 

TAKE LOTS OF PICS.

 

And post 'em here!!

 

My pics: https://goo.gl/photos/QEN3xyQVWXW1jraT6

[Lowndes]

"...the BEST video step by step"?? 

That's like asking what's the BEST icecream flavor.  Or the BEST oil to use in your engine!!  But don't ask about the oil, please.

[Bill Cats]

On 5/19/2021 at 8:41 AM, Lowndes said:

Then there are the Chris Harris vids on YouTube, such as https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6gzR4WHD-94&t=6823s

 

He has several vids on oilhead clutch replacement.  One I used showed how to save time and effort by removing the complete rear frame and drive train by pivoting it either up or to the side with some cables and wiring still connected (support required).  https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-PdVvxMwz_A

 

If you have not watched his vids, he is very direct, no fluff, straight to the work with a  "liberal use of explatives", but is very thorough and even points out some incorrect torque values shown in the manuals for the pivot bearings. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=L0_j8SuiFQI

 

If you want to check or lube your drive shaft splines or check the pivot bearings while you have the bike apart, this is a good opportunity.

 

If you are replacing the friction disc, I used a Siebenrock "Basic" disc ($104 at Beemer Boneyard) and it works beautifully (since Jan, '17).  https://www.beemerboneyard.com/baplclpl.html

 

TAKE LOTS OF PICS.

 

And post 'em here!!

 

My pics: https://goo.gl/photos/QEN3xyQVWXW1jraT6

Thanks !!!

[Flyer5]

Plan on at least 14 -16 hours

[Bill Cats]

You folks are awesome !! I will get the parts there and post ,,, because it's 100% functional now unless I really power on it with 2 riders there is zero issues ( while on alone no matter how much power ) so it won't be till the fall ( hopefully) but I'll purchase parts and review the videos now )))))

[Bill Cats]

Lets talk parts ))

Cheaper is better ))

- Clutch friction plate - 

- throw out bearing ( I can hear it's dry ) 

" Possible pressure plate -

- please add parts needed ----

Best prices , best sources ??

[dirtrider]

4 minutes ago, Bill Cats said:

Lets talk parts ))

Cheaper is better ))

- Clutch friction plate - 

- throw out bearing ( I can hear it's dry ) 

" Possible pressure plate -

- please add parts needed ----

Best prices , best sources ??

Morning Bill

 

Until you know WHY it is slipping then you won't know the extent of parts needed (might be a rear main seal oil leak or trans front input seal seeping.

 

You should probably figure in a new  DIAPHRAGM SPRING (possible heat damage or  weak) as well as new clutch cover bolts (those are one time usage bolts).

[Bill Cats]

Does this bike have a throw out bearing like a car,,, when I am idling at a light and I put in neutral as SOON as I let the clutch out I hear this weird noise like  something going thunk,,, and then a bearing chattering until I pull the clutch back in,,, wherever that bearing is it will need replaced ,,,

 

[dirtrider]

1 hour ago, Bill Cats said:

Does this bike have a throw out bearing like a car,,, when I am idling at a light and I put in neutral as SOON as I let the clutch out I hear this weird noise like  something going thunk,,, and then a bearing chattering until I pull the clutch back in,,, wherever that bearing is it will need replaced ,,,

 

Morning Bill 

 

They don't have an actual throw-out bearing (at least that works directly on the clutch pressure plate like an automobile) but they do have a bearing (inside a piston) at the clutch arm interface that pushes on a long pushrod that goes through the transmission input shaft that then unloads the clutch diaphragm spring to release the clutch. 

 

On your noise?-- There were a few in your era of 1100 motorcycle (most of them somewhat normal).

 

In neutral, clutch engaged, at idle, warm engine a high number of BMW boxer bikes would make a whirring sound as the transmission gears/bearings were then spinning (it used a constant mesh transmission). Another was a rattle or clatter as the harsh firing pulses of the BMW boxer engine would rattle the engaged gear sets (called neutral gear rattle).  Another problem was the pushrod between the clutch lever & the diaphragm spring would rattle at idle inside the trans input shaft, later on BMW added a felt around the push rod to stop that rattle (takes a different push rod with a recess for felt).

 

 

[Bill Cats]

To an old ear such as mine it sounds exactly like a dry worn out throw out bearing in an old school 4 on the floor ,, and starts exactly when I let the clutch out , when in neutral and hot,,, not something that bothers me much ,,, but I was hoping it was not an ominous sign of some huge failure ??

I must say " hypothetical of course ) I run this bike between 80 - 100  plus mph, for 3 minutes or longer at a time and it's flawless,, quiet shifting , never pops out ,,, solid ,, just slips ONLY with 2 on running her hard and a little noisy as described,, 

Do u think it means a year down time because I'm inclined to ride her ,,,

Ur thoughts ???? 

 

[dirtrider]

23 minutes ago, Bill Cats said:

To an old ear such as mine it sounds exactly like a dry worn out throw out bearing in an old school 4 on the floor ,, and starts exactly when I let the clutch out , when in neutral and hot,,, not something that bothers me much ,,, but I was hoping it was not an ominous sign if huge failure ??

I must say " hypothetical of course ) I run this bike between 80 - 100  plus mph, for 3 minutes or longer at a time and it's flawless,, quiet shifting , never pops out ,,, solid ,, just slips ONLY with 2 on running her hard and a little noisy as described,, 

Do u think it means a year down time because I'm inclined to ride her ,,,

Ur thoughts ???? 

 

Morning Bill 

 

Motorcycle gear train noises are so darn difficult to diagnose over the internet. Difficult to explain & more difficult to pinpoint as for origin. 

 

I'm guessing it is just the normal gear/bearing noise that most make in neutral with clutch engaged but without actually hearing it in person that is just a guess.

 

Can you change the noise by just lightly pulling on the handlebar clutch lever  enough to add load to the throw-out bearing????

 

I don't understand the year down time comment-- Even on the first time clutch install it is probably a day to take it apart (slowly & with thought). Probably a day to reinstall the main parts with another short day to tidy up the install & get everything back to where it belongs. You might have a week to get the parts that you haven't preordered.

 

The big fly-in-the-ointment  will be if you find other things when it is apart, like leaking trans input seal or leaking rear main seal, or something else unforeseen. 

 

The thing that you can't really plan for is clutch parts vintage. If your clutch has never been replaced some of the newer clutch parts might not work correctly with your original (still good) original clutch parts. (this can sometimes take time to figure out) 

 

You have a pre 1998 1100RS motorcycle so the clutch parts are a pain to figure out at times, plus,  with you having a 1994 that might also contain some outlier parts that need to be figured out or understood. Then to add to the possibilities there is a chance on a bike that old  that your clutch might have already been replaced at one time really bringing on a confusion factor. 

[Bill Cats]

Thank u for that guidance,,,,

 

----   Do u think it means a year down time because I'm inclined to ride her ,, ---- comment

Typo OR mind fart ---   

I was meaning do u think its a tear down now  { meaning this year rather than this winter ) so this year indicating a  - 6/1/2021 project rather than a 1/15/2022

project -- It feels as if nothing that serious ( a bold ass statement based on riding things that go -- grind - bang - snap for 48 years or so,,, my gut feel is the noises will change from the very weird almost not noticeable winding  up a time of gears in an aluminum box between my legs in less than a split second when my foot drops her in first ,, to the ch,ch,ch,ch,ch slight noise when clutch is out and in neutral --)) all sounds rather endearing like my 55 Oliver when i accidentally engage the PTO when spinning a crazy 2k rpms :))

 

UPDATE ---

I was taking off the rear wheel tonight to have a tire mounted and when i put the breaker bar on the first lug and lifted up to loosen it i noticed that before the lug loosened i was actually able to see what would be about a 1mm of " slop " or travel at the first pivot point where the rear end ( assembly ) pivots / attaches to the bike with the X2 12mm hex head bolts screw into the swing arm end -

hhhhmmmmm,

so i cant resist snooping now and i took off the boot between the rear end and the swing arm,,, dry and no oil indicating no massive seal issue ( assumption )

--- then i marked where the 12mm hex was in relation to the rear end gears,,, then loosened the huge nut and the nut and hex 12mm all came out as one,,

I could now see that the rear nut / 12mm hex screw into the rear assembly into a hole...

 

Question - i am assuming that there is NOT an adjustment there for that slop and it is just the way it is,,,

---  is there an acceptable amount of " slop " back there..??  .... if so im betting im on the limit -

( IS that correct assumption -??? ) OR is there a procedure to tighten there until slop is out and then tighten nut - OR some torque spec for that 12mm with the huge nut that is on tire side of swing arm,,,

NOTE - i did NOT loosen the outer 12mm hex  ( the one you can see when walking up to bike that has no lock nut on it ) but it looks tight and flush with the cases....

 

 

[dirtrider]

8 hours ago, Bill Cats said:

Thank u for that guidance,,,,

 

----   Do u think it means a year down time because I'm inclined to ride her ,, ---- comment

Typo OR mind fart ---   

I was meaning do u think its a tear down now  { meaning this year rather than this winter ) so this year indicating a  - 6/1/2021 project rather than a 1/15/2022

project -- It feels as if nothing that serious ( a bold ass statement based on riding things that go -- grind - bang - snap for 48 years or so,,, my gut feel is the noises will change from the very weird almost not noticeable winding  up a time of gears in an aluminum box between my legs in less than a split second when my foot drops her in first ,, to the ch,ch,ch,ch,ch slight noise when clutch is out and in neutral --)) all sounds rather endearing like my 55 Oliver when i accidentally engage the PTO when spinning a crazy 2k rpms :))

 

UPDATE ---

I was taking off the rear wheel tonight to have a tire mounted and when i put the breaker bar on the first lug and lifted up to loosen it i noticed that before the lug loosened i was actually able to see what would be about a 1mm of " slop " or travel at the first pivot point where the rear end ( assembly ) pivots / attaches to the bike with the X2 12mm hex head bolts screw into the swing arm end -

hhhhmmmmm,

so i cant resist snooping now and i took off the boot between the rear end and the swing arm,,, dry and no oil indicating no massive seal issue ( assumption )

--- then i marked where the 12mm hex was in relation to the rear end gears,,, then loosened the huge nut and the nut and hex 12mm all came out as one,,

I could now see that the rear nut / 12mm hex screw into the rear assembly into a hole...

 

Question - i am assuming that there is NOT an adjustment there for that slop and it is just the way it is,,,

---  is there an acceptable amount of " slop " back there..??  .... if so im betting im on the limit -

( IS that correct assumption -??? ) OR is there a procedure to tighten there until slop is out and then tighten nut - OR some torque spec for that 12mm with the huge nut that is on tire side of swing arm,,,

NOTE - i did NOT loosen the outer 12mm hex  ( the one you can see when walking up to bike that has no lock nut on it ) but it looks tight and flush with the cases....

 

Morning Bill

 

On the clutch slipping issue, no way to put a time frame on impending failure as I can't feel it slip under load. As long as you keep the amount of clutch slipping to a minimum it should go on for quite a while. Once it starts slipping under normal road load, or slipping going up a hill, or slipping & you don't notice it, then it will quickly burn up. 

 

This is one of those deals that could go on as/is for a long time, or fail next ride if it gets abused or starts slipping more. 

 

On the rear drive pivot pin screw?-- That shouldn't have come out without heat as removing without heating can tear the threads out of the soft alloy housing. It should have been Loc-Tited in place. As a rule the nut gets removed first then the inner pin area gets removed next. 

 

It is adjustable at reassembly as the inner stud/pin gets torqued to 7nm (personally I use 10nm)  with no (or very little anyhow)  load on the rear drive, then that stud/pin gets held from turning then the outer nut is installed &  torqued to 105nm. BMW says to use a red type Lock-Tite  (2701) on both stud & nut but a lot of riders just use blue Lock-Tite as it is easier to remove the next  time  & requires a lower amount of heat applied to break loose.

 

If that has been running loose then the  inner needle bearings & race are probably well brinelled & worn but seeing as you need to put a clutch in it at some time in the future then you can probably just re-assemble it now (use a little grease on the bearing interface part), torque it to 10nm (using Blue 242 Lock-Tite),  then ride it until you take it apart when you install the new clutch parts. 

 

You will probably need new pivot bearings when you take it apart at new clutch install, or there are some aftermarket bushing kits available if you choose to go that way instead of bearings.     

[Bill Cats]

 "some time in the future then you can probably just re-assemble it now (use a little grease on the bearing interface part), torque it to 10nm (using Blue 242 Lock-Tite),  then ride it until you take it apart when you install the new clutch parts  "

 

- sounds great - 

 Follow-up ( as always -) 

1- is it a safe assumption that after i get the 12mm hex tightened to 10nm there will / should be a marked decrease in that " slop " at the pivot between the rear end gear housing and the swing arm ...? 

 

2 - if i just have a propane troch am i sitting on the " outside " 12mm hex head with the - blue - tight flame say - 30 seconds or ....??

 

3 - after i have  both 12mm hex out then the rear gear assembly should easily be removed am i in a great place to slide that entire drive shaft out , lube the notorious splines ( both at the rear and front transmission and then ** Slide back in *** easily *** ?? )) ...? 

[JamesW]

Maybe too late for this but you can leave the rear wheel on and simply remove the 4 bolts that hold the transmission on and roll the complete transmission, drive shaft and final drive assembly back away from the engine to access the clutch.  I've done this to lube the trans input shaft splines and can't see why this wouldn't work for a clutch replacement.  Been 10 years since I last did this on the RSL but also did it on my R1150RT (sold) in around '16.  Only takes a couple hours did the R1100RSL in an evening after dinner and was in bed by 10PM.

[dirtrider]

20 minutes ago, Bill Cats said:

 "some time in the future then you can probably just re-assemble it now (use a little grease on the bearing interface part), torque it to 10nm (using Blue 242 Lock-Tite),  then ride it until you take it apart when you install the new clutch parts  "

 

- sounds great - 

 Follow-up ( as always -) 

1- is it a safe assumption that after i get the 12mm hex tightened to 10nm there will / should be a marked decrease in that " slop " at the pivot between the rear end gear housing and the swing arm ...? 

 

2 - if i just have a propane troch am i sitting on the " outside " 12mm hex head with the - blue - tight flame say - 30 seconds or ....??

 

3 - after i have  both 12mm hex out then the rear gear assembly should easily be removed am i in a great place to slide that entire drive shaft out , lube the notorious splines ( both at the rear and front transmission and then ** Slide back in *** easily *** ?? )) ...? 

Afternoon Bill 

 

1- is it a safe assumption that after i get the 12mm hex tightened to 10nm there will / should be a marked decrease in that " slop " at the pivot between the rear end gear housing and the swing arm ...? --- Yes, if all is still OK on the inner bearings then 10nm should remove all the play.  

 

2 - if i just have a propane troch am i sitting on the " outside " 12mm hex head with the - blue - tight flame say - 30 seconds or ....??--- Just get it hot enough for the nut to break loose. You might not even need much heat for the nut to come loose off the stud (it's the stud to alloy swing arm that important to heat before removal.

On the non-adjustable side, to get that side stud out there is very fine line between getting it hot enough to come out vs burning the swing arm paint  (I usually use a commercial high temp heat gun or have used a small flame pencil type torch directed inside the hex)

 

3 - after i have  both 12mm hex out then the rear gear assembly should easily be removed am i in a great place to slide that entire drive shaft out , lube the notorious splines ( both at the rear and front transmission and then ** Slide back in *** easily *** ?? )) ...?  -- Yes & no____  After removing the final drive you can lube the rear spline area  but if you pull the entire drive shaft out it is a REAL PAIN to get the front end to go back on the transmissions splines.  You might wait until you do the clutch before doing any of the drive shaft things as you can take it completely apart at that time.

[Bill Cats]

Got all the tools at harbor freight , ))) will be trying to get the outside 12mm off tonight )) ( it's raining in pa and I'm waiting on my tire getting mounted so I'm in

 - slow motion , clean everything , learn - mode 

[dirtrider]

28 minutes ago, Bill Cats said:

Got all the tools at harbor freight , ))) will be trying to get the outside 12mm off tonight )) ( it's raining in pa and I'm waiting on my tire getting mounted so I'm in

 - slow motion , clean everything , learn - mode 

Evening Bill

 

If you are working with motorcycle on the center stand be sure to ratchet strap or use a rope to tie the center stand to the front  forks or to the front end area. It is very easy to knock a BMW 1100/1150 off of the center stand when working on the final drive area. 

 

Personally, I would just wait until installing the new clutch as that way you can take it all apart in pieces (much easier to work with transmission removal, especially if your trans needs a new font input shaft seal).  

[Bill Cats]

omg .... " If you are working with motorcycle on the center stand be sure to ratchet strap or use a rope to tie the center stand to the front  forks or to the front end area. It is very easy to knock a BMW 1100/1150 off of the center stand when working on the final drive area. "

thank u for that tip... i did that once on a Japanese bike --- 

didn't get to it last night ... it will be raining here for accouple days after today so that's my window  :))

thank u again,,,,

[dirtrider]

49 minutes ago, Bill Cats said:

omg .... " If you are working with motorcycle on the center stand be sure to ratchet strap or use a rope to tie the center stand to the front  forks or to the front end area. It is very easy to knock a BMW 1100/1150 off of the center stand when working on the final drive area. "

thank u for that tip... i did that once on a Japanese bike --- 

didn't get to it last night ... it will be raining here for accouple days after today so that's my window  :))

thank u again,,,,

Morning Bill 

 

I pretty well strap the center stand  all the 1100/1150/1200 bikes when working on them unless I'm just simply looking at something.  

[Bill Cats]

UPDATE - 

Strapped stand -

heated outside 12mm hex and removed ( uneventful ) 

 * inspected needle bearings  - 

       inside one good - outside bad :((

   * reassembled all parts for outside needle bearings

         greased VERY well

    * greased spline

Will reassemble and update

 

Question - 

good source on the pivot bearings  - ??

 

 

Update from assembly last night ::

Reassembled,, went very well,,

- I did not run the bike yet because I noticed there was a red dot for " phasing ' the drive shaft,,, without tearing the swing arm off I assume I cannot " phase " the drive shaft ,,, considering I will be tearing  into all of this again when it's winter,  I left the lower stabilizer leaver off and moved the pivot / rear drive assembly up and down while tightening the newly packed pivot bearings,, overtightened a couple times slightly then backing off  just to let all seat and crush  well into place ,, after  doing that a couple times it got very smooth and notch free,, then correctly torquing at my final assembly,,  it was smooth and zero lateral play,,, )) ! Nice 👍👍

- is it a true statement that u cannot " phase the driveshaft without tearing the swingarm off to see the driveshaft front ? 

- will it break anything to run it without the driveshaft phased  for say about 4k miles at the most this summer ???

- do u have a good source for the bearings )? I will replace them to his winter,,, 

 

Again thank u ! Ur the best :))))))

 

[Bill Cats]

revised topic question,,

Well now if the following condition occur,

 

- finger resting on clutch lever,

- in 3rd gear,

- moving up a hill around 2500 rpms

- snap off throttle and then back on throttle

 i can actually get the clutch to slip a couple seconds,,

I believe its a result of me just ever so slightly touching the clutch lever,,,

Is there a procedure on adjusting the clutch / lubricating cable / linkage, adjust all places ,,, to be sure there isn't a to tight situation in the linkage,,,??  thanks 

 

[Lowndes]

15 minutes ago, Bill Cats said:

revised topic question,,

Well now if the following condition occur,

 

- finger resting on clutch lever,

- in 3rd gear,

- moving up a hill around 2500 rpms

- snap off throttle and then back on throttle

 i can actually get the clutch to slip a couple seconds,,

I believe its a result of me just ever so slightly touching the clutch lever,,,

Is there a procedure on adjusting the clutch / lubricating cable / linkage, adjust all places ,,, to be sure there isn't a to tight situation in the linkage,,,??  thanks 

 

 

 

I phased mine after installing.  You can peer up the tube and see the forward U-joint yokes with a flashlight.  Just align the rear corresponding yoke with the front yoke and slide it on the spline.  If they don't quite align, rotate the rear shaft 180°.  Before you slide it on the last time, mark the M and F ends of the splines with a center punch or file notch.  It's the only thing that will survive til next time.

 

"finger resting on clutch lever,

- in 3rd gear,

- moving up a hill around 2500 rpms

- snap off throttle and then back on throttle

 i can actually get the clutch to slip a couple seconds,,"

 

On my bike that would be the rear tire slipping "a couple of seconds."  

 

 

[Bill Cats]

 On my bike that would be the rear tire slipping "a couple of seconds."  

wow your quite an amazing guy with an amazing bike...

 

( i have no idea what phasing is, :) 

Im looking for a step by step on how to adjust the clutch on a 1997 BMW R1100RSL  :)

 

[Jim Moore]

Here's an image of the adjustment. The correct way to do it is to set the 12 mm distance with the knurled knob a the handlebar, then set the 7 mm distance using the adjuster at the back of the transmission. You have to loosen the locknut, then make the adjustment, then tighten the locknut. If you squeeze the clutch in it will hold the adjuster in place while you tighten the locknut. The 7 mm number is the important one.

 

A clutch will normally slip the worst in 4th or 5 th gear at 4000-ish rpms in a full-power roll-on. Maybe try that and see what happens.

[Bill Cats]

Jim,,,

Thanks much ( EXACTLY what i was hunting for sir :))))  !!! 

[Lowndes]

Bill,

 

This is the Drive Shaft Phasing article that explains how and why on the phasing:

 

https://bmwmotorcycletech.info/phasing.htm

 

 

Post some pics!!