joeb Posted May 3, 2021 Share Posted May 3, 2021 Hi all, hope all are healthy. I've posted this question before but due covid protocol and a surgery ( non covid related , knee replacement ) i havent been able to work on my bike. Now i'm itching to ride and want to bypass abs brakes in the quickest easiest way possible. I have recieved replies that suggested removal of the unit but then need to run new electrical wires and relays for brake and tail light. I can live with the flashing warnings for now and save the rewire for another time. So my question is, if i leave in the abs unit , all electric connected, disconect the brake lines, bypass with steel braided, will my lights work properly ? Thanks all Link to comment
dirtrider Posted May 3, 2021 Share Posted May 3, 2021 1 hour ago, joeb said: Hi all, hope all are healthy. I've posted this question before but due covid protocol and a surgery ( non covid related , knee replacement ) i havent been able to work on my bike. Now i'm itching to ride and want to bypass abs brakes in the quickest easiest way possible. I have recieved replies that suggested removal of the unit but then need to run new electrical wires and relays for brake and tail light. I can live with the flashing warnings for now and save the rewire for another time. So my question is, if i leave in the abs unit , all electric connected, disconect the brake lines, bypass with steel braided, will my lights work properly ? Thanks all Afternoon joeb What motorcycle are you working with? Link to comment
dirtrider Posted May 3, 2021 Share Posted May 3, 2021 17 minutes ago, joeb said: So sorry. 03 1150rt Evening joeb So my question is, if I leave in the abs unit , all electric connected, disconnect the brake lines, bypass with steel braided, will my lights work properly ? -- No way to know for sure until you try it, it REALLY depends on what is wrong with your ABS module. You can use your existing front brake lines by grinding the tit off the the existing brake line Y block then rotating that so the top input line comes out of the Y block then goes directly to the front brake hose (this is an easy task) On the rear you can TRY to route your existing hose directly from the rear caliper to the rear master cylinder, if that won't work then you will either need a longer rear hose or make up a new steel line from the existing rear hose to the master cylinder. Drain the ABS module then plug it off (you don't want the servos to run) . I don't recommend this way but you can try it as I always remove the ABS module then use a brake light relay & re-wire the rear tail light. Link to comment
joeb Posted May 4, 2021 Author Share Posted May 4, 2021 Thank you, of course your way is a better way but does raise some questions in this amateurs mind.changing relays, not sure which ones or where at. Rewire tail light. Is this straightforward from relays to light ?. My understanding is the new relays operate the opposite way from original. Where to get new relays, i wouldnt even know what to ask for or from whom. ABS pump operation ? Not sure what starts pump operation, is it initiated by pressure from brake lines or from electric relay ? The reason i ask is if initiated from brake line pressure , then disconnecting lines from module should prevent pumps from going on, even with light circuitry intact ? Thanks for your time and sharing expertise. Link to comment
dirtrider Posted May 4, 2021 Share Posted May 4, 2021 6 hours ago, joeb said: Thank you, of course your way is a better way but does raise some questions in this amateurs mind.changing relays, not sure which ones or where at. Rewire tail light. Is this straightforward from relays to light ?. My understanding is the new relays operate the opposite way from original. Where to get new relays, i wouldnt even know what to ask for or from whom. ABS pump operation ? Not sure what starts pump operation, is it initiated by pressure from brake lines or from electric relay ? The reason i ask is if initiated from brake line pressure , then disconnecting lines from module should prevent pumps from going on, even with light circuitry intact ? Thanks for your time and sharing expertise. Morning Joeb The OEM brake light relay is internal to the ABS module (built into the electronics). When you remove the ABS module you need to add an external relay to operate the brake lights as the original brakes light switches operate reverse logic so the added relay sort of flips the switch input to bring the brake lights on when either brake light switch goes open. As for a new brake light relay, you can just use the removed ABS relay from the fuse box as that relay was only used for one of the ABS dash lights. (even if you leave the ABS module in the motorcycle you will have to remove that ABS relay as that extinguishes one of the dash ABS warning lights). On the tail lights, you just connect the tail light (IN) wire at the ABS pigtail harness to the tail light (OUT) at the ABS harness. All the wires that need to be changed or hooked to the relay & brake light switches are in the pigtail harness going to the ABS module. If the electronics are still OK & working correctly on your present ABS module then you have a 3rd option, you can remove the electronics box from the present ABS module then seal it's open side (not easy) then use that to run your brake lights & tail light. Link to comment
joeb Posted May 8, 2021 Author Share Posted May 8, 2021 Thanks but still confused. I do realize that a thread here and there cannot replace years of exprerience working on bikes, so i hope my questions are not being tiresome. You said one option is to use abs electronics box , remove it then seal. Why not just leave it attached to module with the brake lines disconnected from module. Or would the pump still try to run ? I did see on one U tube where the electric box was removed wires disconnected and clipped, sealed up and zip tied back onto bike. Im usually skeptical about utube vids as i dont know the credentials of posters. Does that method make sense to you ? Thank you. Link to comment
dirtrider Posted May 8, 2021 Share Posted May 8, 2021 42 minutes ago, joeb said: Thanks but still confused. I do realize that a thread here and there cannot replace years of exprerience working on bikes, so i hope my questions are not being tiresome. You said one option is to use abs electronics box , remove it then seal. Why not just leave it attached to module with the brake lines disconnected from module. Or would the pump still try to run ? I did see on one U tube where the electric box was removed wires disconnected and clipped, sealed up and zip tied back onto bike. Im usually skeptical about utube vids as i dont know the credentials of posters. Does that method make sense to you ? Thank you. Afternoon Joeb I haven't ever tried to leave the ABS module in the motorcycle with the hydraulics disconnected. Personally, if I was ever to do that myself I would at least unbolt the black box from the module then disconnect the servo pump wires from the black box to prevent the chance of the servos ever coming on during a ride-off test. As long as the module has to be removed to disconnect the servo pump wires might as well leave the heavy part of the ABS system out of the motorcycle then JUST reinstall the sealed up black box. I guess my personal feeling is: if the servos & ABS are not operational then why keep that darn heavy ABS module in the motorcycle. Link to comment
RogerC60 Posted May 10, 2021 Share Posted May 10, 2021 I'll second DR's recommendation. Two years ago I removed the ABS from my '03 RT. I removed the electronics box from the ABS module (simply unplug wires, no need to cut anything). I "sealed up" the exposed electronics with a piece of plastic cut from a Chinese food carryout container and some good duct tape, then zip tied it in place. I've ridden for two years, 22000 miles or so with no problem. Link to comment
joeb Posted May 21, 2021 Author Share Posted May 21, 2021 Hello, finally got the brakes sorted. Thanks to all who pitched in with advice. DR kept saying i would probably like the nonpowered brakes as well or better . The nonpower brakes feel almost the same as powered, i don't think ive lost any stopping power while the initial application seems more linear.. Did almost the same as RogerC60, except didn't use chinese food container, i used some roofing tin and gutter sealant. Replcaced the old lines with braided steel from Spiegler Perfrmance. Brian at Spiegler very helpful .Great service. Ordered lines on Wed, had then in hand to install on Fri. NOTE on line installation. Easy, the 03 rt has all sorts of room so no need to worry about real accurate line length measurement, ordered mine a little long. Didnt spend money on new distribution piece, just ran 1 line from front master cylinder to right caliper, doubled up the banjo fitting with a short jumper over top of wheel to the left side. Now i have to get used to not having ABS as it is possible to lock up rear wheel. Fortunately, i'm not a big rear braker. I do have to drive a little more carefully, probably not a bad thing. Thanks to all. 1 Link to comment
RogerC60 Posted May 24, 2021 Share Posted May 24, 2021 Glad you got your brakes straightened out. I mentioned how easy it is to lock the rear wheel after removing the ABS. D.R. suggested switching to organic compound rear brake pads. I did that a few weeks ago and have noticed a dramatic improvement in rear brake control. They're still strong enough, but now they're much less grabby. Link to comment
joeb Posted May 25, 2021 Author Share Posted May 25, 2021 On 5/23/2021 at 9:10 PM, RogerC60 said: Glad you got your brakes straightened out. I mentioned how easy it is to lock the rear wheel after removing the ABS. D.R. suggested switching to organic compound rear brake pads. I did that a few weeks ago and have noticed a dramatic improvement in rear brake control. They're still strong enough, but now they're much less grabby. Thanks, will do.! Link to comment
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