Waking an R1100 RS after very long term storage

[Kegwasher]

My friend has offered me his ABS equipped half faired 1996 R1100 RS that he parked in the back of the garage around 15 years ago and never got back to.  He says it ran great when he stopped riding after a scare dragging a peg in a corner.  I’m normally a Harley guy, aircraft mechanic and engineer so I’m not afraid of a little wrenching and troubleshooting.  
what’s the thought of the BMW grey beards on such a bike?  
is it worth putting in the effort to make it road worthy? I must say it’s a sexy looking bike and I’d love the challenge but thought I’d see what BMW riders think about it.  
He put a new battery in and it cranks but no spark or fuel pump sounds. 
I’ve gone through a couple BMW forums and found some of the big buck or ride ending problems.  HES rebuild, ABS module that randomly dies, transmission forks that cause shifting issues and final drive failures. 
I can understand replacing all aged brake and fuel lines, fluid replacement, and bearing repacks.  
will it be a money pit that never runs right or a nice project for rainy days? 
‘many thanks

 

[dirtrider]

10 minutes ago, Kegwasher said:

My friend has offered me his ABS equipped half faired 1996 R1100 RS that he parked in the back of the garage around 15 years ago and never got back to.  He says it ran great when he stopped riding after a scare dragging a peg in a corner.  I’m normally a Harley guy, aircraft mechanic and engineer so I’m not afraid of a little wrenching and troubleshooting.  
what’s the thought of the BMW grey beards on such a bike?  
is it worth putting in the effort to make it road worthy? I must say it’s a sexy looking bike and I’d love the challenge but thought I’d see what BMW riders think about it.  
He put a new battery in and it cranks but no spark or fuel pump sounds. 
I’ve gone through a couple BMW forums and found some of the big buck or ride ending problems.  HES rebuild, ABS module that randomly dies, transmission forks that cause shifting issues and final drive failures. 
I can understand replacing all aged brake and fuel lines, fluid replacement, and bearing repacks.  
will it be a money pit that never runs right or a nice project for rainy days? 
‘many thanks

 

Morning Kegwasher

 

It DEPENDS, on how it was stored, where it was stored, & how bad the fuel system is corroded or degraded. 

 

15 years with alcohol containing fuel stored in it will most likely turn in the inside of the fuel tank into junk.  But parts are available on the internet. 

 

Is it worth saving??????-- Only a good inspection & evaluation will answer that!

 

No spark could be many things (is the side stand UP)? Possible HES, or mouse wire damage. 

 

No fuel is to be expected after 15 years of storage. 

[Paddler]

 

Last year the fuel pump on one of my R1100R's broke.  Turns out that the reddish brown coating on the inside of the tank had mostly peeled off.  It appeared that the coating had clogged the intake to the pump so the pumped failed, but not sure.  Stripping the inside of the tank without damaging the outside paint was an unpleasant adventure,  Took a long time and multiple Jasco applications.  Recoating with Red Kote wasn't too bad.  It's easy to see if you have this problem, just inspect the tank with a flashlight.  Maybe others here have experience with this and know of a better approach.  After stripping and rinsing, I used citric acid to prevent rust before recoating.  I read that some don't recoat, but was uncomfortable not doing it.

[Kegwasher]

Thanks for the responses.  It’s been a garage so not directly exposed to the elements.   I’ve heard of tanks needing care but that does sound like a pain. It is sounding li,e a major project.  Hate to see a bike that looks so new just sit.  

[JamesW]

I too have a '93 R1100RSL that I acquired in 2012 that had never even been started since it left Berlin in '93.  The fuel pump was frozen and the fuel filter was completely clogged.  In this case Euromotoelectrics in Denver is your friend not BMW parts. A new fuel pump, filter, and all rubber hoses in tank is about $200 you save a bundle.  I'd also remove the fuel injectors and send them to RC Fuel Injectors in Torrence, CA for cleaning and flow testing.  Then after she runs give her a Chevron Techron treatment  for a few tank fulls.  That is something I've neglected to do having only done it once when I first got the bike intending to keep it up but I kind of forgot is my best excuse.  Oh, do a complete fluid change including a good brake fluid flush. I would also invest in a Haynes manual on the bike first thing. I also have a BMW service manual which is OK but the Haynes is about as good for a whole lot less.

 

Good luck and happy wrenching.  Oh, forgot to mention that I absolutely really like the way these early oilheads handle and I experience less rider fatigue than on any other bike I've ever ridden.  Had a new '86 BMW K75C that was about as good but think I'll take the flat twin design to the 3 cylinder K75 but not by much.  The K75 was too top heavy in comparison.

[Paddler]

If you replace the fuel pump and filter I'd recommend using the crimp hose clamps,  The worm gear screw on type take up too much room.  It's doable, but if I had to do it over, I'd go with the crimp on type.  If the tank is okay, replacing the fuel filter and pump isn't that difficult.  Stripping and recoating a tank is a PITA.

Spoiler

 

 

[Kegwasher]

Sounds like replacing the pump, all internal lines, and filter while having the interior resealed is the minimum.  Sending out the HES & nozzles for cleaning while that’s going on.  
want to make her tip top.  

[dirtrider]

6 hours ago, Kegwasher said:

Sounds like replacing the pump, all internal lines, and filter while having the interior resealed is the minimum.  Sending out the HES & nozzles for cleaning while that’s going on.  
want to make her tip top.  

Morning   Kegwasher

 

Probably that is the minimum, the entire pump passthrough plate & fuel gauge assembly might be so corroded that it would need to be replaced. The inside of the fuel tank might also be a rusty pitted mess. I have seen some that just were not savable & others that would clean up enough to work OK.  

[James in OK]

Doesn't the R1100RS have a plastic tank?  I'm pretty sure mine does (2000 R1100RS).

[dirtrider]

1 hour ago, James in OK said:

Doesn't the R1100RS have a plastic tank?  I'm pretty sure mine does (2000 R1100RS).

Afternoon James in OK

 

Yes, I think you are correct, it is painted so I assumed it was metal but a closer look shows it to be molded plastic.  

 

 

[JamesW]

Yup, it has a plastic tank and the material can absorb moisture.  I've never put anything but non-ethanol in mine.  The pass through plate or fuel pump assembly costs $393 OEM or from Euromotoelectrics, not cheap but then parts for any BMW can take one's breath away at times.

 

I should clarify that statement.  "Some people say the tank can absorb moisture."  Maybe this is just more unsubstantiated  internet related conjecture with no actual proof.  

[Kegwasher]

Thanks all.  The tanks been sent out to replace the pump, filter and any tubing while access is good.  The nozzles will be replaced with rebuilt units.  Oil was changed as well.  We’ll see after that if there’s spark. 

[Lowndes]

2 hours ago, Kegwasher said:

Thanks all.  The tanks been sent out to replace the pump, filter and any tubing while access is good.  The nozzles will be replaced with rebuilt units.  Oil was changed as well.  We’ll see after that if there’s spark. 

 

Kegwasher,

 

If you haven't sourced your injectors yet, there is a guy in NJ that will clean and re-test your injectors and provide a flow chart that shows how well matched your cleaned injectors are.  Read more about it here:   https://advrider.com/f/threads/1200gs-injector-adapter-kits-for-1100-and-1150.1187011/

 

He also sells new and used (reconditioned) injectors. 

 

I purchased these EV14 (K1200) injectors for all three of my "2000 era" BMW's. https://injector-rehab.com/shop/BMW-Motorcycle/

 

You might consider upgrading to the EV14 injectors with much finer spray patterns that the older Bosch R1100 single port injectors.  The "upgrade kit" includes the matched injectors (new or refurb) plus the adapter/spacers (the newer Bosch injectors are shorter).  It's really a R&R job and easy on the R1100 engines.

 

These are the pics of my '99 R1100RT injector upgrade: https://goo.gl/photos/oQ8BBhTRRHQHPW5B7