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Fall Appalachian Riding Tour (FART) - Sept 25-29 Ellijay, GA
Kinsley replied to Indy Dave's topic in Appalachian Riding Tour
There are instructions for just about everything in life, but I've never seen any for FARTing, so whether you have a wet FART or enjoy a perfect one over several days...here you go. Here's a link to the FART 2019 Routes as well as a PDF with instructions for loading them and brief descriptions. I will be out of touch the first half of September, but there are many expert FARTers around here who can help with your FART experience, so reach out if you need help. -
"New" R1100S - won't start, but that's OK because it won't stop either...
dirtrider replied to szurszewski's topic in Oilheads
Morning szurszewski Is fuse #2 still in place & not blown? With the brake lights working then it is probably good though. Is fuse #4 good? That powers up the dash part of the speedometer. Does the large red wire going into the ABS module have 12v on it? The ABS relay only drives the ABS light, I don't think the ABS controller can tell it's missing but even if it could that shouldn't shut the speedometer off. But, try installing it anyways just to verify that isn't somehow causing your issue. Is the yellow general light on? (no external relay on that one). Otherwise verify that both wheel speed sensors are working & plugged into the main harness (I think the speedometer runs off the rear wheel sensor but it might need both front & rear working to output the speed signal). In most cases when the speedometer quits on the 1100S it's a wheel speed sensor issue. - Today
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Kitcho joined the community
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steve...DR and others will weigh in who are more knowledgeable than me, but what you did today I would think eliminate drive train and point towards tire/wheel. Let's see what they say.
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This morning a few friends and I went for a little ride. We stopped here for brunch.
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today I put on another 140 miles on the RT. Still loving the bike. on the backroads below 60 i'm really not feeling a problem, but get up on the interstate and it shows up again. Rolling down the road at 75 and pull in the clutch and no change, still getting the shake. it feels about the same at 90 as it does at 70, just a higher frequency, but same amplitude. I'm thinking it's the tire. When the new tire shows up at my local Cyclegear store i'll inspect the brearing when the wheel comes off.
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"New" R1100S - won't start, but that's OK because it won't stop either...
szurszewski replied to szurszewski's topic in Oilheads
Bike is running well, maybe a little surge but otherwise very nice. Breaks work well as do the break lights....but no Speedo or odometer. I did pull the blue “abs” relay as suggested to eliminate one of the dash lights. Does that need to be in place for the Speedo? I’ll probably try to put it back in tonight and see what happens. -
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"New" R1100S - won't start, but that's OK because it won't stop either...
szurszewski replied to szurszewski's topic in Oilheads
It's alive! Got it all back together - still need to change the transmission oil (don't have the right stub 14mm hex to clear the exhaust, but the engine and fd oil looked good when drained, so I doubt the transmission has been neglected) and plugs and check the valves and adjust the TBs. Took a tiny ride around the neighborhood - seems great. Front brake has more lever travel than I'd like, but once you get to the point of braking it works well. Rear brake seems great. Going to take it out and maybe get at least halfway through the gears later tonight, and if all is well take it for a spin down the coast tomorrow and Monday. I did notice a crack in the right header while I was cleaning. Can probably be welded, but also a good excuse to cruise ebay for a used aftermarket or something like that Thanks for all the help everyone - it's much appreciated. I'll post some pics later. josh -
Last year I acquired a 65k mile 2005 ST. At 70k miles I have only done maintenance so far. I did need a fuel pump control module to get it going when I got it. Everything seems to work well. It does burn a bit of oil, but that's it. I wish I knew someone with a lower mile ST so I can compare the ride.
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A credit card is the most versatile tool made.
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With the right equipment and somebody to show you how the first time, it's usually not that hard. I've done it, using other people's equipment. I've also done it, out of necessity, with nothing but a HF bead breaker and industrial zip ties. That was a pain in the ass, but it worked. But no matter which way you do it, takes time. How much of your time is it worth to use the last 20-30% of available tire wear?
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Somebody needs to tell those guys with the Corvettes that they're going the wrong way.
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- Yesterday
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Anyone ever change out the front brake switch on a 1998 K1200RS? Any info or insight...? Is it difficult?.Thanks...
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I've never tried it but there a more than a few YouTube University videos that make the changing part look fairly easy. You'd still need a balance of some kind but those appear to be easily stowable. John Painter (TinderBox Arts on YT) recently posted one that was very good. I feel you. I hate throwing away stuff that's usable (while still being safe).
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I rolled out my 92 ultra today and it happened to lead me back to the hog-pen. Now, It's never gonna have the performance of a modern-day BMW but, if used as intended it's enjoyable. (to me anyway) The new ones are light years better but holy shites batman, $34,000 bucks for the paint job that makes me weak in the knees. Edit...they do include the bike for that price I guess.
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53 days later I rode again for the first time. Right wrist pretty sore so I only rode for half and hour. First ride on the R 1200 R I bought last month. Quick, nimble, lots of low end grunt, holds a line. I think I'm going to like this bike.
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Firefox! Plenty fast and more ability from keeping Google and Microsoft out of your shorts. Really hate the tracking and ad targeting you to "improve" your on line experience.
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The other alternative is to invest in the tools required to change them yourself, if you have room for them. This typically involved a Harbor Freight or NoMar tire changer mounted (perhaps removably) to a piece of plywood. It's not small, and you need to room to keep it when not in use, or a garage space big enough to permanently mount it to the floor.
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I've always loved the look of the HD dressers. I found myself years ago going into the garage after a couple of beers to admire the lines of my Road King and, later, an Ultra Classic. The performance and suspension on both led me to move to a RT in 2002, but I still admire their design.
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Evening Imgnr It might get better & might not, depends on WHY it is dragging. With a new slave are you SURE that you got all the air out of clutch hydraulics? About all you can do is be sure that you have all the air out of the clutch hydraulics, set the clutch lever to provide max lever travel, then ride the bike. If it gets better then you are OK, if it doesn't get better then you will have to either live with it or go back in & try to find the issue.
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I just finished my first clutch job ever. New clutch pack and new slave. In first gear and with the clutch pulled in, the bike wants to move forward at about 3mph. I have to pull in the brake to prevent it from moving. Is this normal after a new clutch is installed? Will it stop after the parts have had a chance to wear in? Thank you!
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I just finished my first clutch job ever. New clutch pack and new slave. In first gear and with the clutch pulled in, the bike wants to move forward at about 3mph. I have to pull in the brake to prevent it from moving. Is this normal after a new clutch is installed? Will it stop after the parts have had a chance to wear in? Thank you!
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It's a jungle out there, I tell ya! Yesterday we had Monkeys, today Wild Hogs! 2020 HD
